Innovation
Sep 2026

Switches for your home: a room-by-room guide

Time to read: 4 min

A considered design of home control panels ensures the perfect balance between ease of use and safety. Choosing the correct types of switches based on the intended use in each room allows for optimal energy management, preventing faults and ensuring a compliant electrical system in accordance with current legislation on residential electrical installations.

How domestic electrical systems work

The supply, distribution, and safe use of energy within the home are made possible by an integrated network of interconnected components, with a structure defined by Article 21 of the CEI 64-8 standard based on three main pillars:

  • circuits dedicated to powering devices;
  • lines dedicated to supplying power to electrical sockets;
  • modules provided for protective equipment.


The total energy consumption of the property is recorded via the electricity meter. The protection of the entire electrical system and the distribution of the circuits to the main junction boxes are managed by the main distribution board, which is located immediately downstream of the meter.


Electrical cables are routed through concealed conduits built into the floors and walls. The earthing circuit protects people from electrical shocks, which discharges dangerous electrical potential directly into the ground via underground earth electrodes.


In domestic properties, the distribution system is organised from the junction boxes: a main unit routes the cables to the secondary circuits in each room.


Safety requirements also stipulate the installation of circuit breakers to prevent overloads and short circuits, and of domestic residual current devices to prevent electric shock. 


The main safety device, which is required by law, is the residual current device, which immediately cuts off the power supply to the circuit to prevent electric shocks and malfunctions by diverting the current into the earth. 


In a modern electrical system, home management can also be enhanced by smart switches for load automation and consumption monitoring.

A switch or a diverter? How to choose the right option for hallways and corridors

Choosing the right plates, switches and electrical fittings in hallways and entrances has a direct impact on how easy it is to move around the property.


A circuit used for power transmission is switched on and off using a standard wall-mounted switch. When, on the other hand, it becomes necessary to divert the electrical current to an alternative cable, diverters are used. These modules are installed in pairs to allow a light fixture to be switched on and off from two separate locations.


This is where the difference between a switch and a diverter lies: the latter allows control from two points, something that is not possible with a pair of standard switches. In hallways and entrances, a diverter is preferable to a standard light switch, as it allows the user to switch the light on at one end of the hallway and switch it off conveniently from the other end.


The choice between a switch or a diverter therefore depends on the number of positions from which you wish to control the light.

Living room and bedroom: when do you need an inverter?

In open-plan living areas or bedrooms, the use of simple, linear wall switches is not sufficient to ensure convenient control of the lighting, and it is advisable to plan the switch layout carefully to ensure an ideal living experience


To control a device from three or more different locations, you need inverter switches, which are always fitted on the section of circuit between two terminal diverters. Once you exceed four control points, it becomes necessary to use buttons linked to relays


The inverter is distinguished visually by the presence of four connection terminals, grouped in pairs of identical geometric shapes (usually two elliptical and two rectangular).


This component extends the circuit’s capabilities, allowing for flexible control:

  • in the bedroom, the main light can be switched on from both the entrance door and both sides of a double bed. The circuit includes a deviator switch near the door, a deviator switch by the first bedside table, and an inverter switch fitted on the second bedside table;
  • in the living room, this allows the light to be switched on from the hallway, the sofa or the dining table, by positioning a four-terminal module centrally between the two diverter switches at either end.

Kitchen: single-pole or double-pole switch?

The kitchen houses appliances with high energy consumption, which requires the adoption of a system with single-pole and double-pole switches combined. 


The activation of light loads (LED spotlights, fluorescent or dichroic bulbs) is usually performed by a single-pole switch - meaning a standard domestic light switch - which disconnects the current from the circuit by acting exclusively on the live pole, without interrupting the neutral conductor.


For the management of large household appliances on the other hand, a double-pole switch is used, which disconnects the current from both the live and neutral simultaneously, ensuring complete isolation of the appliance from the mains. 


This feature is necessary to safely switch off ovens, hobs, dishwashers, washing machines, fridges and boilers whilst cleaning. Consequently, the choice between a single-pole or double-pole switch depends entirely on the nature of the associated load.

Bathroom: safety zones and installation limits

The danger of electrical currents coming into contact with water requires careful planning of the components to prevent the risk of short circuits or electric shocks.


The layout of components in bathrooms is regulated by Section 701 of the CEI 64-8 standard, which divides the space into four protection zones (0 to 3) based on proximity to baths or showers, setting out the minimum requirements for enclosures and the dimensions for each zone, measured taking into account the presence of walls and fixed screens.


The standard provides for the subdivision of the space surrounding baths and showers into four zones of decreasing risk, setting out the geometric dimensions to be observed when selecting and installing fixtures. This starts with Zone 0, the highest-risk area, defined as the interior of the bath or shower tray, and move on to Zone 3, the area of the bathroom furthest from these fixtures.


This step-by-step plan takes into account the presence of raised shower trays and raised bath bases, or showers without a tray, and enables you to determine exactly where to route the cables and install domestic switches in accordance with the regulations.


The minimum watertightness required for components varies depending on the installation volume:

  • in Zone 0 an IPX7 grade is required;
  • in Zones 1 and 2 an IPX4 grade is required;
  • in Zone 3 an IPX1 grade is sufficient.

Exterior and garage: how to choose the IP rating

In garages and outdoor spaces devices are required that can withstand atmospheric elements, dust and liquids.


For covered enclosures, the technical regulations stipulate that switches must have a minimum IP44 rating. If the installation takes place in locations directly exposed to atmospheric elements, an IP55 rating is required, such as that provided by the GEWISS outdoor switch, or an IP65 rating if the area is subject to direct jets of water.


In summary, the parameters change according to the exposure:

  • enclosed, draught-free garages: IP40 rating;
  • damp, dusty garages or those with a car wash area: IP55 rating;
  • protected outdoor areas: IP44 rating;
  • open spaces and gardens: IP55 rating or higher, against driving rain.


The automation of outdoor lighting at dusk can be managed by installing an outdoor twilight switch. For wall mounting, a special external box for sockets and switches, fitted with flexible protective membranes, is used.

FAQ

At what height should switches be fitted in my home to comply with regulations?

The geometric positioning recommended by the CEI 64-8 standard and accessibility legislation specifies a height of between 90 cm and 110 cm from the finished floor level for general controls. In the bedrooms, the height is reduced to 70–80 cm above the floor to make it easier to use near bedside tables. In the kitchen and bathroom, the height is increased to 110–120 cm to prevent accidental contact with water splashes. In rooms designed for people with disabilities, the standard height is set at 90 cm.

What types of electrical switches should be fitted in the safety zones of the bathroom?

In the first three hazard zones (zones 0, 1 and 2), the installation of standard switches is prohibited. Only power switches supplied with extra-low safety voltage (SELV, less than 12V AC or 30V DC) are permitted, provided that the transformer is located outside Zones 1 and 2, or pull-cord controls with an insulated cord. Traditional electrical switches may be fitted in the safety enclosure (zone 3), although a modern switch fitted with anti-condensation seals is preferable.

How many switches are needed for a room?

The basic criteria require a main control switch near each entrance to switch on the room lighting. Depending on the floor area and the layout of the furniture, you could consider installing deviator or inverter switches to allow the same light to be switched off from multiple locations. The total number of modules to be installed therefore depends on the access points and lighting points shown in the floor plan.

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